DIY Vortex Brewer

September 19, 2014 by echerbalalchemy 2 Comments

Why Vortex?

The Vortex Brewer is a potent method of growing beneficial microbes. When added to the garden, these microbes act in synergy with growing plants.

At less than a 5 gallon volume, this is definitely not a commercial unit, but it makes the power of the vortex available to the home and hobby gardener. There are no water pumps used to accomplish the vortexial circulation in the Brewer; the movement of the water is accomplished entirely by the influx of air. High volumes of air are pumped into the up-pipe creating a vacuum behind them as the bubbles float upwards. This action naturally pulls water from within the drum downward and back up into the up-pipe. This means that no compost tea bags ever need to be used. I settled on this design because it is affordable, easy to build, disassemble and clean. The Vortex Brewer uses the natural stimulation of the vortex rather than simple stone aeration to stimulate biological activity.  

Tips

• DO NOT skimp on the air pump, otherwise you won’t get the lift and vortex action that’s necessary to make the whole thing work properly. The air pump used here is a rated at 80 watts, and was by far and wide the most expensive part of the project.

• Most of the plumbing is 1.5” and the output is 3/4″ (Why? Mainly because 3/4″ is cheaper than 1.5″ – especially for ball valves and such.

• Use only “Sanitary T’s” – They’re cheaper, and are made such that there are little / no liquid “dead” spots in the tubes – no right angles = better flow.

• I specifically chose to use a brass air fitting into the brewer. Why you ask? While a bit of heat in the compost tea is okay and will speed the brewing process, the Air pump pushes out relatively hot air. The brass fitting acts as a heat sink. By using a brass fitting, it stays cool from the constant water movement, and the heat isn’t transferred to the brewer causing premature tea-spoilage.

• I didn’t PVC glue mine at all – I wanted to be able to take it apart for efficient, easy cleaning. I was careful to make very straight, square cuts to avoid the dreaded “PVC Wobbles” – Especially because I knew this thing would rock and roll with some weight sloshing around in it. Making sure the joints meet tightly is a must.

• It is imperative to clean every piece of the machine that comes into contact with the tea very well before the next brew. “Nasty” bacteria can form in the small crevices, and cause premature spoilage. I break my entire unit down and soak it in a mild, neutral detergent overnight (seventh generation), then rinse well with tap water. I avoid scrubbing as much as possible, as this creates microscopic spaces for bacteria to hide and thrive.

• Aside from Compost Tea brewing, The Vortexer can be also used as a nutrient mixer / aerator.

Tools Needed

• Screwdriver
• Jigsaw
• PVC Glue (I didn’t glue mine)
• Hacksaw (for cutting PVC)
• Tinsnips

Equipment Needed

• 1 x Air pump (60 LPM Minimum – I use an 80 watt ecoplus)
• 1 x 5 Gallon Water jug (Handled-Jug or not; I’ve done both)
• 1 x Milk Crate
• 1 x 8 feet length of 1.5” Sch. 40 PVC
• 1 x 2 ft. Section of ¾ in Sch. 40 PVC
• 1 x ¾” Sch. 40 PVC Ball Valve
• 1 x 1.5” to ¾” Reducing Slip
• 1 x ¾” 90-Degree Sch. 40 PVC elbow
• 2 x 1.5” Sanitary T
• 2 x 1.5” 45-Degree Sch. 40 PVC Elbows
• 1 x 1.5” 90-Degree Elbow
• 1 x 1.5” x ½” Sch. 40 PVC Reducing T
• 1 x 1.5” Rubber Sch. 40 PVC joint (w/ clamps)
• 1 x 1.5” Sch. 40 PVC Cap
• 1 x BRASS ½” thread to 7/16 air hose barb

Basic Plans

1. Begin by cutting the bottom out of the barrel.
2. Install the rubber gasket / joiner piece. tighten onto both sides – the bottle and the PVC pipe.
3. Cut a small length of PVC to meet your sanitary T. Since sanitary T’s are angled to move liquid in 1 direction, be sure the piping is always sending the water backwards and upwards with the least resistance at each joint.
4. Run a length of 1.5 inch PVC towards the back of the brewer.
5. Install a 1.5 inch to ¾ PVC reducer
6. Install ¾ pipe w/ ball valve and 90 degree angle
7. Install 1.5 inch 90 degree elbow in the rear facing downwards.
8. Onto the 90 degree elbow, add a length of PVC. you want the “air in” sanitary tee to be roughly ¾ down the device.
9. Install a longer length of PVC.
10. To this PVC, add the 3rd sanitary t.
11. Add small PVC joint tube to PVC cap on top.
12. Add a small length of PVC to the sanitary tee facing towards the brewer.
13. Now mark and cut your last hole in the 5 gallon barrel. the higher up on the brewer, the more tea you can brew at a time. (alternatively, you can go up and over the side with PVC thus eliminating the need for the secondary hole in the 5 gallon barrel.
14. Install your first 45 degree elbow into the protruding PVC pipe.
15. Install a secondary 45 degree to improve vortexial action (not required)

Begin by installing the Rubber fitting onto the barrel.

Cut the milk crate to work

Install Sanitary T fitting as shown

To the Sanitary T, Add a PVC pipe and 90 degree elbow

Install the reducer fitting into the front end of the T

Assemble the valve

Install the valve on the brewer

Assemble air fitting. Note a brass fitting is used.

To the 90 degree elbow, install a short piece of PVC, and to this, another Sanitary T. Install the air fitting onto the T.

Add another length of PVC and to this, install the last sanitary T. Mark and cut the jug as you see fit here. Up and over Vs. through is personal preference.

Add a short length of PVC and to this, add a 45 degree elbow.

A second piece of pipe and elbow can increase the vortexial action.

Be sure to wash everything in a mild, neutral detergent before re-use.

Cheers, Grow on, and as always, be happy!

Feel free to contact us with any questions.

-EC@Herbal Alchemy